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An Obsession with Shiraz

An accountant may argue that growing a single grape variety is not exactly a prudent business practice for a wine company, for if the demand for that variety wanes, the producer has no other wine to offer. This may well be the argued case in larger, more diverse wine producing companies, however, Tatiarra is a specialist niche producer. The company’s obsession is not to be the biggest, but rather one of the best Shiraz producers in the world.

The Heathcote district has a rare ability to produce Shiraz wines of relatively high alcohol that remain perfectly balanced and absent of any hot sensation on the back palate. The grapes are not picked by ‘numbers’ alone which might result in the vigneron being tempted to start vintage when the grapes reach a beaume of around 14 degrees potential Alc/Vol. Surprisingly for the Tatiarra vineyard at this level of beaume the grapes are still not physiologically ripe and the flavour profile remains incomplete. Instead picking dates and row selections are determined primarily by tasting the berries throughout the vineyard to ensure all fruit is picked at optimal physiologically ripeness. Tasting berries and examining grape pips has some parallels to reading tea leaves in the bottom of teacups - in both instances one is endeavouring to predict the future. The full flavour profile at the Tatiarra Heathcote vineyard seems to develop when the grapes reach a potential alcohol level of around 15.5% Alc/Vol. The big surprise is that the numbers remain text book perfect with pH at 3.4 and T.A. (Total Acidity) around 7.2. A remarkable achievement that results in powerful wines of monumental structure and richness.

The Shiraz wines at Tatiarra are produced with long term cellaring in mind. The vineyard produces a rare balance between fruit and tannin levels, which whilst firmish are perfectly balanced creating wines that are capable of being cellared for 15-20 years, (subject to ideal cellaring conditions at a constant temperature of 15 degrees and 75% humidity). Tatiarra has used very long very expensive high-grade corks, or stelvin seals on more recent bottlings, to ensure that the full potential of the wine can be realised.

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